Make the most Hydrating Body Lotion

Hi Skincare enthusiast

Over the weekend, I made this  Super Hydrating Body Lotion for a client with really dry skin. I then thought to share a few tips here on how I achieved the perfect texture/consistency 💫 as well as share the exact formula I used incase there are formulators here who are battling with creating a hydrating body lotion for their client

The hydrating body lotion formulation is an emulsion with relatively low viscosity that can be applied all over the body. Basically, Formulas for lotions should be lightweight, quick-absorbing and leave very little or no residue on the skin. Lotions should provide enough hydration while also strengthening the skin barrier function and locking moisture within the stratum corneum. That is why it is crucial to select the optimal lipids and active ingredients for the formula.

I selected ingredients that are suited to formulating a cosmetic product for dry skin, that is generally sensitive as well. This formula omits essential oils to ensure it is ideal for use on sensitive skin. It keeps the formulation process simpler too. 

The key ingredient used in this formula include: Sweet almond oil, Jojoba oil, Emulsifying wax, Xanthan gum clear, Sodium hyaluronate, Centella asiatica extract, Beta glucan, Vitamin E Oil, Germal plus etc

Sweet Almond oil— this is a natural oil pressed from the seeds of almond kernels. It has 65% Oleic acid and 20% linoleic acid content, offering skin softening, moisturization and barrier repair to soothe dry and itchy skin

Jojoba oil – this is a natural plant emollient with excellent thermal and oxidative stability and very nice skin feel and is fast absorbing.

Emulsifying wax– this is a naturally-derived emulsifier suitable for a variety of textures from liquid milks to rich, thick creams. It promotes the formation of a liquid crystal structure and gives rise to a long-lasting moisturising effect.

Xanthan gum—xanthan gum is a natural gum polysaccharide created through fermentation of sugar (glucose or sucrose) by Xanthomonas campestris bacteria. It is used in cosmetics as a thickener or rheology modifier and emulsion stabilizer.

Sodium hyaluronate – this is a natural mucopolysaccharide with an excellent water-retention capacity. It preserves the moisture and elasticity of the skin and is especially suitable for moisturising preparations like lotions, serums and light creams.

Centella asiatica extract – this extract has potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial and regenerative properties.

Beta-Glucans—Beta-Glucans are known for their skin plumping properties, helping to deeply hydrate the skin, plumping and firming fine lines and wrinkles.

Vitamin E— an antioxidant that is added to both protect sensitive ingredients in the formulation from oxidation and to add skincare benefits.

Germal plus—this is a wide-spectrum, antimicrobial agent, or natural-skincare-compatible preservative.

Hydrating Body lotion formula

Ingredients	Phase	Percentage
Sweet Almond Oil	A	8
Jojoba oil	A	2
Emulsifying Wax	A	4
Cetearyl  alcohol	A	2
Glycerin	B	4
Xanthan gum	B	0.8
Distilled water	C	70
Disodium EDTA	C	0.2
Sodium Hyaluronate	D	0.3
Centella extract	D	5
Beta glucan	D	3
Vitamin E Oil	D	0.2
Germal plus	D	0.5

Method of Preparation 

1) Prepare and weigh out separately all ingredients for phases A, B, C and D. 

2) Melt phase A ingredients in a water bath. The temperature should be kept at about 65-70°C to fully melt all solid ingredients. 

3) Blend phase B ingredients: Prepare a glycerine / gum slurry, and set aside. 

4) Heat up phase C ingredients making sure it has a similar temperature to heated phase A (about 65-70°C). 

5) Add phase B ingredients into heated phase C and make sure it is mixed in properly. 

6) Homogenise A + BC—Slowly pour heated A into B+C and homogenise. Cool down Cool down slowly, avoiding rapid temperature changes. Heat-sensitive phase 

7) Add phase D ingredients below 40°C. 

8) Check pH Measure the pH and adjust if necessary. The ideal pH for this formula is pH 5 – 5.5.

Further Formulation notes:

• This formula is a basic example of a hydrating lotion formula and can be enriched with additional actives and functional ingredients to soothe other skin needs
• Other Ingredients suitable for dry skin are, d panthenol, ceramide NP, sodium PCA or sodium lactate.
• If using hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate) in powdered form, let it disperse in glycerin or in an aqueous solution (a small portion of water phase)  to ensure it dissolves without clumping; then add it below 40°

Leave us a comment below if you find this post helpful and if you have any questions 💗